Kalbarri - 19 September

19 September 

On to Kalbarri the next morning via a few National Park lookouts overlooking the Gorge and the Murchison River. 

We took a whale watching cruise late in the afternoon and "enjoyed", with the eight tourists from Hong Kong and China the movements of the whales and the dolphins. Lorraine asked the skipper if he could let them know that the reason the whales disappear so quickly after they've broken the surface of the water is because they squeal and shriek so loudly - tell them that the whales are scared!

Ooooh!  Arrrrgh!  Scream, Scream!
Whales heading south.
It was great to see some whales slapping their tales and rising above the water - particularly after the poor showing on the whale cruise at Kooljiman/Cape Levique.  And after all of our attempts to catch a fish on this trip - from Derby, Broome ... to Kalbarri we decided if we were to catch anything, it had to be here, our penultimate town on the west coast.  Who knew there was such a thing as a 4 o'clock in the morning?!  But it was at 4 am the alarm roused us and we were up and off to the jetty to board the boat by 4.45 am.  
Rods and reels all ready for early morning action.
After introducing ourselves to the other seven anglers we enjoyed a hot cup of coffee, then we were off out the heads to the open sea, the Indian Ocean.  
Dawn breaking. Beautiful!

Clearly the early morning is the time to catch fish.  Lorraine caught a red snapper and had difficulty hauling in the 6 kg monster, calling, "John, help me, help me!" 
Lorraine's catch - a red snapper.
... but John was hauling in his own red snapper at the same time, so the skipper helped Lorraine haul in her catch.


John successfully brought in about six fish, a couple had to be thrown back, a couple kept for additional bait and these two - absolute beauties!


John's red snapper and bald-chin grouper/blue-bone grouper.
The fangs on John's bald-chin grouper/blue-bone grouper.
This fish Lorraine caught - a beautiful specimen, but with sharp spikes - not keen to handle before it went back into the ocean.
We headed off the next morning with a fridge full of cryo-vacced fish and tummies full of baked grouper cheeks.  Yum yum!

"Z Bend" a part of a distinctive zig-zag of the Murchison River.
We hiked down the bottom of the Gorge to the Murchison River.  The shape of the river is formed by the fractures within the red Tumblagooda Sandstone - a very different type of rock to that which we've encountered anywhere else on our trip.

The hike was another grade 4 and with John's knee being a bit dicky again, it was certainly a challenge for him.  The tens machine has been doing a great job of keeping his knee in 'working order' but ...

John tackling the grade 4 hike into the Gorge.

A magnificent overhand of rock showing years of formation.
 The "path" down into the Gorge was signposted, like many, but it was basically clambering over boulders and rocks with two steel ladders to negotiate.

The "path" into the Gorge
Safely near the bottom of the Gorge.
We enjoyed a small break at the river and then started the ascent - John thankfully finds that part of the hike easier than the downward section.

We then made our way to, "Nature's Window" a beautiful rock formation that with a decent camera - would allow a proper photo showing the Gorge in the background!  Damn those thieves who stole my Canon EOS at Karijini :(

"Nature's Window".


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